Method of manufacturing boots and shoes.



J. WAITB. METHOD OF MANUFACTURING BOOTS AND SHOES.

APPLICATION FILED OCT. 18, 1910.

Patented Mar. 30, 1915.

1 To all whom it mar concern and useful Method of, Manufacturing Boots and Shoes,

JOHN H. wan n OFBR'OGKTON, MASSACHUSETTS.

' Eamon or MANUFACTURING BOOTS Am SHOES.

Be it known that I, JOHN H. WAITE, a

citizen of the United States,resid ing at- Brockton, in the county of Plymouth and State of Massachusetts, have invented a new of which the following is a specification.

The principal objects of this invention are to provide a simple, convenient, and inexpensive method of making a shoe having means for efficiently supporting a fallen arch, and also of such a nature that it will tend to, prevent the falling of the arch of a normal foot, and at the same time having all the flexibility of a Goodyear or hand-sewed article at the front and along the outer side but having a relatively firm .shank.

The principal cause of the recent development of fallen arches is the constant cheap ening of the shoes, and particularly cram shanks thereof. On account of the construction of this part with the main supporting element concealed, it can be cheapened very easily without detection and this has been done to such a degree in recent years that even the better classes of shoes have been materially weakened.

I This invention provides for strengthening vthis part of the shoe without materially increasing the cost. It may be remarked also that another cause of. this difliculty is the almostuniversal demand for light handsewed or Goodyear shoes. By this invention, the advantages thereof are secured without danger of weakening the arches, and in fact with an accompanying means for supporting them- Reference is to be had ing drawings in which,

Figure 1 is the bottom plan view of part of a last with an insole thereon ready'for lasting and broken away: Fig. 2 is a bottom plan view of the shoe constructed in accordance with this invention, with parts broken away to show interior construction:

to the accompany- I Fig. 3 is a side elevation of a portion of the shoe shown in Fig. 2: and Fig. 4 is a transverse sectional View of a complete shoe on the line 44 of Fig. 2.

The last A is in general of the usual construction, but the metallic heel plate A is provided with an extension A nearly half the width of the shank of the shoe and extending along the same on the inner side toward the toe, terminating at the inside ball Specification of Letters Patent.

Application filed October 13, 1910. Serial N 0. 586,841.

forth hereinafter.

Patented Mar. 30, 1915.

of the last. The purpose of this ,will be set In the manufacture of a boot or shoe ac-' cording to this invention the insole 9 after being properly channeled from the outside corner of the heel to the inside ball is placed on the last A, with an extension piece 15 on the inside shank, and temporarily tacked in position. Then the upper or vamp 8 is fastened to the last as in theordinary method of lasting. The edges of the vamp are temporarily tacked down from the outside of the heel at 11 around the toe and back on the inner side to the front end of the extension A These tacks are not shown as they are pulled out later as the shoe is welted. However, the welt 13 is sewed to the upper and insole by stitches 13 from the outer front corner of the heel at 11 around to the front end of the shank at the inside ball of the shoe, that is to the front of the projection A Then a reinforcing piece 10 which is heavier and wider than the welt is placed along the outside of the edge of the vamp along the shank from the front of the heel to the end of the welt to cover the other side of the heel also. 'After this the usual shank piece is put in and the outsole laid and rounded. Then the outsole is Goodyear stitched in the usual way from the heel at 11 around the toe and back on the inner side to the rear end of the reinforcing piece 10, or it can be hand-sewed if desired. This stitching gives more flexibility to these parts than to the rest of the shoe. This having been accomplished, the shoe is taken ofi' the last and preferably placed in aStandard screw machine byare applied going through which screws 12 the outsole, reinforcing piece 10, upper'or vamp 8 and insole 9 so as to make the shoe firm and solid at this point. These screws extend throughout the length of the reinforcing piece. This makes the shoe firm and solid along this reinforcing strip and much more rigid-than around the rest of the sole. After this the shoe is put through Way, or if it is desired to do away with this operation, it can easily be operated upon by the McKay machine or the Standard screw While the shoe is in that machine.

By the above mentioned procedure, it will be seen that a very strong construction is secured along the inside of the shank, although the flexibility of the front part of the sole and the outside of the shank secured by the Goodyear or hand sewing process is not lost. If desired, however, the outside of the shank may be strengthened also by the McKay machine or Standard screw.

The object of the reinforcing strip 10 is twofold; namely, first, it constitutes a continuation of the welt, making the edge of the inside shank the same thickness as the outside shank; second and chiefly, a wider and finer piece of leather can be used at this point.

The insole 9 consists of a piece of soleleather of the usual shape, except that extending along the inner side of the same, all along that part which comes over the metallic extension A on the heel plate, there is a projecting piece 15, which, when the shoe is .made, projects up just on the inside of the inner lining thereof. In that position it serves to support theinside part of the foot. Thus, a permanent support is provided, one which Will not become loosened in Wear or get out of position, as it is integrally connected with the insole itself. This projection is skived off at the edge so as gradually to approach a feather edge. Its presence does not necessarily affect the manner in Which the shoe is manufactured. As will be seen from Fig. 3, it preferably is of such shape and size as to overlap the counter 16 at the end. Therefore the counterassists in holding it in position inside the shoe.

A lthough I have illustrated and described a preferred way of carrying outthe invention, I am aware of, the fact that many modifications can be made therein by any person skilled in the art Without departing from- 1. The method of making boots and shoes which comprises placing a vamp and insole. on a last, temporarily fastening the edge of Therefore, I do not W ISlI'tO be the. vamp to the insole from a point near the heel on the outer side around to the toe and back to the ball only on the inner side, pern'ntnei'rtly fastening the edge of the vamp to the insole from the ball on the inner side along the shank to the heel, stitching the vamp to the insole where it has been temporarily fastened to the insole from said permanent fastening to the heel on the outer side, and firmly securing an outsole to the edge of the ramp and insole along the inner side of the shank. I

2. The method of making boots and shoes which comprises placing a vamp and insole on a last, temporarily fastening the edge of the vamp to the insole from a point near the heel on the outer side around tothe toe and back to the ball on the inner side, providing a welt extending from a point near the heel on the outer side of the shoe around the forepart to the ball on the inner side, providing a reinforcement heavier than the welt along the inner side of the shank from the end of the Welt, permanently fastening the edgeof the vamp to the insole and re inforcement from the ball on the innerv side along the shank to the heel While on the last, sewing the vamp and Welt to the insole Where the vamp has been temporarily fastcned to the insole, and firmly securing an outsole to the edge of the vamp along the inside of the shank.

3. The method of making boots and shoes which comprises placing a vamp and insole on a last, temporarily fastening the edge of the vamp to the last from a point near the heel on the outer side around to the toe and back to the ball only on the inner side, sewing the vamp and a Welt to the insole Where the vamp has been temporarily fastened to the'last, applying an outsole, sewing the out- I sole to the Welt from the outside of the heel to the ball on the inner side, removing the incomplete boot or shoe from the last, and firmly securing the insole and outsole to the edge of the vamp along the inside of the shank.

l. The method of making boots and shoes which comprises placing on a last a vamp and an insole having a projection extending beyond the inner edge of the shank inside the vamp, sewing'the edge of the vamp and a Welt to the insole from a point near the heel on the outer side around to the toe and back to the ball only on the inner side, flexibly sewing an, outsole to the Welt from the inside ball to the heel on'the outer side, removing the incomplete boot or shoe from the last, and permanently securing the outsole to, the" edge of-the vamp along the innerside of the shank'bet weenthe' insole proper,

and projection.

5. The method of making boots and shoes which comprises placing an insole and vamp on a last, placing thereon a Welt from the outside front corner of the heel around to the ball on the inside, securing together the insole, vamp and Welt throughout the length of the Welt, placing a reinforcing piece, heavier and Wider than the Welt,

along the inside shank over the edge of the vamp, nailing it firmly to the Vamp and insole, securing an outsole t0 the Welt, removing the boot or shoe from the last, and se- 10 curing the outsole, reinforcing piece, vamp,

' Witnesses:

ELMER H. FLETCHER, LLOYD'E. CHAMBERLAIN;

and insole together throughout the length of the reinforcing piece.

In testimony whereof I have hereunto se my hand, in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

JOHN H. WAITE. 

